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Fasthouse
Senior Member
Joined: 20 November 2003 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 2837 |
Topic: Lockup clutch spring pressuresPosted: 14 January 2004 at 5:36pm |
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I know someone out there knows this from experience. I have a GS1150 based cartire bike. It has the regular MTC lockup unit. With a 10X26 MT slick about how much spring pressure (at installed height) should I start out with? How much weight on the arms? It is a 1327 big valve motor. Super Comp combo If someone could help get me close it would save me a lot of grief! Thanks Edited by Fasthouse |
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I was taking to a guru, who was spittin' out some who do, and this hoodoo was no voodoo..... but a blessing in disguise
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Grand Squirrel
Groupie
Joined: 25 November 2003 Location: Australia Online Status: Offline Posts: 35 |
Posted: 15 January 2004 at 7:10am |
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Jeff, If you are running 1150 primary gearing then around 220lbs of launch pressure and a maximum of 1.5 to 2 grams of weight on three fingers with the other 3 no added weight at all. This should get you started. If you are running the popular 750 primary ratio then start at 280lbs of spring pressure and about 3.5 grams of weight on 3 fingers only. This should be a good baseline to get you started. |
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GRAND SQUIRREL AND C.E.O. OF THE SECRET SQUIRREL SOCIETY OF AUSTRALIA INC.
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jackinzoar
Senior Member
Joined: 19 November 2003 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 7045 |
Posted: 15 January 2004 at 8:46am |
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are you refering to the actual clutch spring pressure , or the springs under the arms ?
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Fasthouse
Senior Member
Joined: 20 November 2003 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 2837 |
Posted: 15 January 2004 at 10:14am |
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I meant the actual total static spring pressure provided by the 6 clutch springs. That and the weight added to the arms for the lockup. I just dont want to spend the first weeks of the season stumbling for a baseline clutch setup. I can then make changes as I figure out what the bike wants. I have set these things up before but never on the big tire. I appreciate the help.
Also, it does have the 1100/1150 ratio. The bike/rider will weigh about 610 lbs. Edited by Fasthouse |
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I was taking to a guru, who was spittin' out some who do, and this hoodoo was no voodoo..... but a blessing in disguise
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jackinzoar
Senior Member
Joined: 19 November 2003 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 7045 |
Posted: 15 January 2004 at 11:23am |
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I'm trying to learn this myself ,, last I worked on a lockup was an MRE back in 85 or so ,, I'm(trying)to help a friend with an MTC on a 210 hp Buell streetbike ,, lots to learn !
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Fasthouse
Senior Member
Joined: 20 November 2003 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 2837 |
Posted: 16 January 2004 at 2:23pm |
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If I am planning on running nitrous, will I need more spring pressure/weight? I just see a lot of lockup bikes that "slam" at the starting line. Its like they have a ton of spring pressure. Some even bog real bad. If your going to have that tight a clutch why bother with the lockup at all? Or am I missing something? Edited by Fasthouse |
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I was taking to a guru, who was spittin' out some who do, and this hoodoo was no voodoo..... but a blessing in disguise
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DaveDole
Senior Member
Joined: 18 November 2003 Online Status: Offline Posts: 224 |
Posted: 17 January 2004 at 6:50am |
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I.m running stock springs and 1 nut on each of the bolts in the arms.
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Ken Walker
Senior Member
Joined: 21 November 2003 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 371 |
Posted: 17 January 2004 at 9:39am |
I agree, You can get just about any clutch to lock up with stiff enough springs. The point of a lock up is to be able to lock up the clutch with softer springs so you wont bog or break the back tire loose on the launch. |
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W. Baxter
Senior Member
Joined: 18 November 2003 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 968 |
Posted: 17 January 2004 at 11:47am |
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Jeff: I have supplied a lot of weak springs for guys wanting very little base in thier setup, let me know if you would like a set. The amount of weight will depend on your springs, its a balance between the two. The Prostock guys are masters at clutch tune up and it seems that no two of them agree on exactly where to start as they all have combinations that work for them. Maybe GB3 could give you a solid base line to start with.
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"poena par sapientia" (Pain equals wisdom)
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Roland Tamaccio
Senior Member
Joined: 20 November 2003 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 1852 |
Posted: 17 January 2004 at 12:46pm |
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... Some tires / suspension require a hit that almost bogs the engine. For thirty maybe thirtyfive years I and many crew guys have been hearing riders / drivers say "it did not feel like my best ET / sixty foot". This is because as the clutch snaps that last little bit of inertia out of the spinning crank mass it gives the tire the best "plant". I did not figure this out till about "87 when I was able to put incremental time slips together with data, but knew somewhat what the driver was saying since "74. The "feeling" is that the engine is too low and feels like it is taking forever to climb out; as opposed to somewhat driving through the tire and or clutch.
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rpmlou
Groupie
Joined: 17 January 2004 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 37 |
Posted: 17 January 2004 at 1:57pm |
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The lockup clutch is a must for any dragbike. Not only is it for a consistant launch, but to save chains, trannies and sprocket bolts. Depending on how you have your cams setup and the gearing, launch RPM and bike rider combo you can kill a pretty hot motor right on the starting line. ( major bog!! ) Of coarse you will need a different clutch set up for more horsepower like NOS or engine improvements. The setup would be different if you change your cams, bore, comp. ratio or a different rider. It's hard to just say what you need for clutch pressure without being at the track and tuning your motor/clutch combo. If you have a good spring tester and know your stack height, I can get you pretty close, but not just throw in a spring or two. I wish I could type it better for you. Just call me some time and I'll try to help you more on the phone. 712 274 2870 Lou D. Good luck Jeff! |
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Fasthouse
Senior Member
Joined: 20 November 2003 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 2837 |
Posted: 18 January 2004 at 9:50pm |
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Yea, Thats all I am looking for is a baseline. On the smalltire I just used stock springs and one washer on each arm. But that was a street tire and we were using the tire a little. I always wanted to go softer on the spring setting and play with the weight. The S/C bike I ride now has a slider. Great for short times, great for consistancy, not so great for reaction times. With the new Bike I want to try a lockup. Bill, I might want to take you up on those springs. Keep the advice coming guys, I am learning a lot! |
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I was taking to a guru, who was spittin' out some who do, and this hoodoo was no voodoo..... but a blessing in disguise
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Fasthouse
Senior Member
Joined: 20 November 2003 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 2837 |
Posted: 24 January 2004 at 1:48pm |
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Bill, I have recieved some good advice from this thread, but do you have a contact for GB3? |
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I was taking to a guru, who was spittin' out some who do, and this hoodoo was no voodoo..... but a blessing in disguise
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geek
Senior Member
Joined: 08 January 2004 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 1856 |
Posted: 19 September 2005 at 9:12pm |
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Figured I may as well add my 2 cents to all these lockup posts. I
did a search and was amazed at how many times this is talked
about.
I have two MRE types. I use it on an old GS with little luck so far, so take this info for what its worth which may be nothing. Also, my math may be wrong..... I started by measuring three sets of springs. APE Red, 60 lbs @ 1" GS head spings (i think), 43 lbs @ 1" Schnitz Yellow, 41 lbs @ 1" Weighed the weights. Stainless nut with nylon insert 3.5622 grams Bolt 6.0652 grams Washer was 1.1044 grams I tossed out the weight of the arms and used it for some saftey factor. Taking some rough numbers off the lockup, the center of the hub to the center of the weights is about 2". The center of the arm to the center of the weights is about 0.9". The length of the arm to where it hits the button is about 0.5". I use the 1100 gears, so the crank has 49 teeth and the basket has 87. With this you can calculate the force added to the pack from the weights. Just convert the grams and inches to pounds and feet and use: (Engine RPM * (basket teeth / crank teeth))^2 * 0.000341 * (weight of washers + nut + bolt) * the distance of the weights to center of hub * lever ratio of arm. ^2 is squared 0.000341 is the coefficient of centrifugal force So, if its not spinning there is no weight. In my case, using 4 washers on each arm is about the following: 500 RPM = 1.2 lbs 1000 RPM = 5.0 lbs 2000 RPM = 20 lbs 4000 RPM = 79 lbs 8000 RPM = 317 lbs 9000 RPM = 401 lbs So, If you used three APE red springs thats 3 * 60 lbs or 180. This is added to the centrifugal force. In my case that would be more than 600 lbs of force (remember I did not add the arm weight) The problems I have had are finding a good balance. I use an air clutch lever and have played with slowing down the release rate to help dampen the shock, but still give me high enough static pressure to do a burn-out in third. One thing that does make a lot of sense to me is that the track prep is key. How the pros figure it out is far beyond me. |
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ALO
Senior Member
Joined: 13 July 2004 Location: Canada Online Status: Offline Posts: 888 |
Posted: 19 September 2005 at 10:35pm |
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I use a tape recorder mounted on the bike to listen to the engine sound as it leaves the line. I listen for a slight pull down then a steady rpm climb to the first shift, you'd be surprized at how useful it is to hear the engine after the run. I hear all kinds of stuff that happens during the run. It's a poor mans data recorder and legal for those NHRA tracks that have no electronics rules.
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geek
Senior Member
Joined: 08 January 2004 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 1856 |
Posted: 20 September 2005 at 7:14am |
Need to multiply the weight by the number of arms, in my case 6. Then you should get the same numbers. I had often thought about sticking a tape recorder on a bike but not to listen to it. Those new MP3 recorders could be mounted to the frame real easy. Not sure how it would help with clutch tuneing. |
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geek
Senior Member
Joined: 08 January 2004 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 1856 |
Posted: 20 September 2005 at 6:41pm |
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I have a simple program that I use to do these calculations and plot the results.
![]() As for tuning the thing, or getting some kind of base line. I made the grave mistake of using the setup that had been used with the clutch when I bought the first one. That resulted in total pack destruction from the heat. I heard the engine rev at about mid track, but it was too late. So I backed up to no lockup at all. I then tried to figure out how much pressure I needed just from the springs. Once I had this I used the program to figure out about how much weight I needed to make this amount of pressure where the bike was pulling the hardest. I figured this would allow me to run as little spring force as I could get away with. Once the lockup was installed again I started with with a very high spring pressure (the same setup that held before) and then started dropping it. This is a Suzuki, so it uses six springs but I can run 6,4 or 3 springs and keep fairly consitent pressure on the pack. Also, note that the software is setup to handle two sets of three arms. This is to help fine tune things. The next problem I ran into on my old bike was once the spring pressure would be low enough to keep the nose up, there was not enough static force to get things going to do a third gear burn out with the car tire. I then tried to add more static weight to try and get more force faster. But you need to add a lot of weight to make much of a difference. So I started playing with slowing the release rates of the clutch lever. I have tuned other lockups just by watching how the bike launghes. The best thing is to record the launch with some sort of data logger. It seems to be a never ending battle. Someone needs to write a book for all of us. I would be the first to buy it. |
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geek
Senior Member
Joined: 08 January 2004 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 1856 |
Posted: 27 September 2005 at 8:00pm |
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A few people asked about the program so I am making it available for
free. I cleaned it up a bit. Still no great features.
dickey.intell-a-sys.com/turbo/lockup.exe The program is built using LabView 6.1i. You will need to download the LabView runtime engine in order to run it. http://digital.ni.com/softlib.nsf/websearch/57F2E10F3CD9306B 86256B4100683DE1?opendocument&node=132070_US |
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Mark Neary
Groupie
Joined: 23 December 2003 Online Status: Offline Posts: 43 |
Posted: 28 September 2005 at 8:46am |
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Nice little app., man. I so envy coders..
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TriRyche
Senior Member
Joined: 17 May 2004 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 318 |
Posted: 28 September 2005 at 2:38pm |
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Lots of good discussion regarding static spring pressure and lockup weight, but no talk whatsoever about the counter-weight springs. I think jackinzoar was referring to this in one of his posts. So what springs do you use for the counter-weights? Maybe the term "counter-weight springs" is wrong, I dunno. What I mean is the weight under the lockup fingers. The MTC lockup I have has 6 fingers. Came with 5# springs on 3 of them and 7# springs on the other 3. Turned out to be all wrong for my app. I run about 324 pounds of static spring pressure and *lots* of weight on all 6 fingers. The counter-weight spring selection was critical for my application.
--jack |
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