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Fasthouse View Drop Down
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  Quote Fasthouse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 January 2009 at 12:47pm
 Same length.. but they have 20mm pins.
These, however, were bushed to 18mm.
I was taking to a guru, who was spittin' out some who do, and this hoodoo was no voodoo..... but a blessing in disguise
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geek View Drop Down
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  Quote geek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 January 2009 at 8:04pm
Seems like bushing would at least let you replace the bushing without pulling the crank apart. 


Ok lets test out this new (to me) camera.   This one is an Olympus C-4040 and its about 8 years old.   It's a huge step up over my last used Olympus.  Battery life is greatly improved, lens is better and it can shoot some video.  These pictures were taken with just the standard camera, no added lens.   Pictures were then compressed to upload to this site.  


On to the cast or forged question....

Nothing new for the GS guys in these pictures.   Hope they are good enough that you can tell how the cranks are processed.  After pulling one back out I realized I should have looked more close before posting.  The parting line looks different depending on the throw.


This is a virgin 1982 GS1100 crank.  Calipers are set at 0.1" for a reference. 




This is the same 1982 crank on a different throw.  There looks to be two different parting lines for the various throws.





This is a 1983 GS1100 crank that was reworked by Falicon maybe 9-10 years ago.   



Same 1983 crank



Same 1983 crank.  In this picture you can see the two different parting lines.



Falicon crank. 



Same Falicon crank










Edited by geek - 18 January 2009 at 9:04am
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Roland Tamaccio View Drop Down
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  Quote Roland Tamaccio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 January 2009 at 9:45am
... Mark, to start, the stock rods have just about exactly what I think a steel forging parting line should look like. I don't see anything that looks like a cast parting line. On the "virgin" crank with calipers, it looks like a steel forging that has laid in a creek bed for thirty years and was taken out once a year for a HARD sand-blast (lol); however it seems to be an exception in appearance. The crank parting lines that appear just about the same as the stock rod lines are definitely forgings. A cast parting line will be: narrow, slightly raised, and relatively strait. Go to an old automotive crank grinder and ask to be shown the difference.
... All the Federalees say,
... We could have had him, any day,
... But who would haul our aerospace freight, away.
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geek View Drop Down
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  Quote geek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 January 2009 at 10:36am
Originally posted by Roland Tamaccio

On the "virgin" crank with calipers, it looks like a steel forging that has laid in a creek bed for thirty years and was taken out once a year for a HARD sand-blast (lol); however it seems to be an exception in appearance.


Yea, you blow these things up a few sizes and hit them with a flash, all the details come out.   Just like HDTV, the female actors don't look so perfect anymore. 

Sounds like both the 83 and 82 throws that have the much finer lines are still a forged part?    In the picture of the 83, on the top throw you see that same fine line.  It's faint but its there.    It also looks like the starter throw on both the 82 and 83 have that same faint line.   So do some of the others.   This is what I first noticed as I did not unpack the whole crank when I looked the first time.  I was thinking that the fine line would point to it being a cast part.  






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Roland Tamaccio View Drop Down
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  Quote Roland Tamaccio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 January 2009 at 12:49pm
... Mark, if you look at the pic with calipers @ the bottom of the shot you see some swaged or forging flash near the edge of the counterweight, about an inch long, just below the calipers.  Might be some different type of forging , dies. Elsewhwere, these shadow (my term) lines do not look like casting parting lines to me.

Edited by Roland Tamaccio - 18 January 2009 at 12:53pm
... All the Federalees say,
... We could have had him, any day,
... But who would haul our aerospace freight, away.
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Fasthouse View Drop Down
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  Quote Fasthouse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 January 2009 at 1:37pm
Look like forgings to me.
I was taking to a guru, who was spittin' out some who do, and this hoodoo was no voodoo..... but a blessing in disguise
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  Quote geek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 January 2009 at 2:29pm
Originally posted by Roland Tamaccio

... Mark, if you look at the pic with calipers @ the bottom of the shot you see some swaged or forging flash near the edge of the counterweight, about an inch long, just below the calipers.  Might be some different type of forging , dies. Elsewhwere, these shadow (my term) lines do not look like casting parting lines to me.


Yes, I see what your talking about.  There is what appears to be some sort of flashing along the edge.  Not sure what would cause the thin shadow then. 

This is another picture of the 83 crank's shadow.  Afraid the reflection off the oil makes it a little tough to get a decent picture.  It does have a lip at the shadow if that means anything. 


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  Quote geek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 January 2009 at 2:48pm
This is the 82 crank that has laid in a creek bed for thirty years and was taken out once a year for a HARD sand-blast.   I was trying to get a side shot that would show you what that shadow looks like so you could see how much of a step it has.   

Is that whole part that is sticking out the line?  That would make a lot of sense and it would be about the same width as the other parts. 

Zoomed out, you can see where it is machined how much of a step there is in the part.  Its more than a shadow for sure.



Same but zoomed in as far as I could go.   The FBI could lift my print off the bearing so don't spread this around too much.   





Edited by geek - 18 January 2009 at 2:51pm
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jackinzoar View Drop Down
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  Quote jackinzoar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 January 2009 at 3:16pm
as I understand it ,,, nothing cast would be a good choice for the amount of pressure required to press a crank
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  Quote Roland Tamaccio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 January 2009 at 6:16pm
... Mark, looking at these narrow line/marks, two things come to mind. The surface is generally rougher than cast and it might be possible that a fresh set of dies and just the right amount of steel left these narrow forging parting lines. Also, looking at the crank in sections, are there both types of parting lines, in any individual section.

Edited by Roland Tamaccio - 18 January 2009 at 6:22pm
... All the Federalees say,
... We could have had him, any day,
... But who would haul our aerospace freight, away.
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  Quote geek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 January 2009 at 7:47pm
Originally posted by Roland Tamaccio

... Mark, looking at these narrow line/marks, two things come to mind. The surface is generally rougher than cast and it might be possible that a fresh set of dies and just the right amount of steel left these narrow forging parting lines. Also, looking at the crank in sections, are there both types of parting lines, in any individual section.


Keep in mind that the 83 big end and the 82 small end have the same look to them.  If there was a fresh set of dies, its strange that both MYs would look the same.  

No, I don't see where any of the throws have both types of parting lines.  They are one way or the other.   Like in that zoomed out picture of the 82 crank, you can see this same line on both sides of the throw.   Unless, like I asked, if that whole raised part is the parting line.  Sure is a lot cleaner and finer than the other parting lines.   

I did find this article that talked about the two

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0308_crankshafts_how_to/index1.html
The rods and the other throws from what I can tell looking at pictures are forged.   These other throws sure look different and more like the cast parts shown in the article. 

Jack,  its all way outside my area.   I did find this video that talks about Harley using a cast pressed crank.  So I guess its not unheard of.   

http://revver.com/video/1309301/harley-davidson-crankshafts-forged-or-cast/


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  Quote jackinzoar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 January 2009 at 8:41pm
HD's pressed twincam cranks are junk from stock ,, didnt watch the video due to phoneline speed ,,,, they use way too little force in the first place
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  Quote geek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 January 2009 at 8:58pm
I know talking with John the press was the whole ticket to a good crank.   The better the press fit the more power you could throw to it.    Every time he takes one apart, the press fit gets a little worse.  Then he marks them or tells us that the crank can't be rebuilt again. 

He would be the guy to ask about the strange lines.  He's a good guy and very helpful.  Just hate to waste his time when there's no $$$ involved. 

Video was talking about the forged and cast cranks and that the cast parts were strong enough for most applications.  Crank prep was key in getting them to live.   All pretty common sense stuff I guess.  
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  Quote jackinzoar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 January 2009 at 9:35pm
cast tends toward brittle ,, enough force for a proper fit could result in fracture ,, as to a "cast crank",, eliminate sudden shock or poor balance and they should survive fine ,, here on a drag race site , they dont add up , this is what I've been led to understand
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  Quote geek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 January 2009 at 12:59pm
ME's at work say it all appears forged.  
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Roland Tamaccio View Drop Down
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  Quote Roland Tamaccio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 January 2009 at 1:40pm
... Mark, it might be possible that the forging plant used pre-shaped blanks in an effort to get as close to "near net shape"  thusly generating less scrap. This is the driving force behind the whole powdered metal industry, these rods need very little machining. So, maybe they used a blank that was very close to the final counter-weight shape. Made possible by the short sections used in roller bearing cranks, and only had to forge / extrude short journal areas. I don't know if the ME's agree with me but I call an extrusion a linear forging.
... All the Federalees say,
... We could have had him, any day,
... But who would haul our aerospace freight, away.
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  Quote geek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 January 2009 at 2:54pm

Funny, seems you were listening in!!   Yes the were talking about it most likely starting out as a pre shaped part then forged to final shape.  

I got a little lesson on the process.  Now I am sure I will put my foot in my mouth because of it. 
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  Quote Bob Brooks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 January 2009 at 3:26pm
This is all fascinating stuff guys. I've always wondered why they copper plate (or at least that's what it appears to be) rods. I expect it's something to do with sealing the surface to prevent the propagation of cracks, but what do you think. 
 Also, I've often read on here about polishing roller bearing rods around the ends when balancing them. I tried this on a set of new Suzuki rods many years ago, balanced them to perfection. BUT when I measured them they'd all gone oval by a couple of thou' hence I binned them.  How do you guys overcome this, or was I unlucky.
Cheers
Bob    
Bob Brooks
Yellow Metal Racing
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Roland Tamaccio View Drop Down
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  Quote Roland Tamaccio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 January 2009 at 4:28pm
... Bob, don't know why the bike rods are coated, but Chevy used to coat a run every once in awhile. They did this when the big ends were a little oversize and they copper plated them back down to specs. When you balance, keep a pail of water handy and don't let the rod get hot.
... All the Federalees say,
... We could have had him, any day,
... But who would haul our aerospace freight, away.
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  Quote geek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 January 2009 at 5:41pm

Every motorcycle engine I have ever had from my youth till now had copper on the rods.   I tried a little search for you and saw a lot of different ideas but no real hard core proof of why.   Everything from rods being defective to corrsion resistance to making them stronger.  It's the net, so who knows.....  Then saw this note from a Taiwan motorcycle connecting rod factory:

"Process the design without copper plating decreases the Hardness of the mast, increases the bend resistance, MAST can be bended over 90 degrees angle with breakage!"
 
Other than the english is worse than mine, I'm not sure what to take from it.
 
This was a video I found on connecting rods 101.  He talks about the copper but not thinking this was the reason the Jap. bikes were using it.
 
 
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